The fifth installment of Annie’s diary…

We remembered Kenneth’s birthday December 3^rd and wished him very many happy returns of the day although we were so far away. I daresay the contrast in the weather would strike you all at home, it was a lovely Sunday, the sun shining and we were still wearing our summer clothing.

On November 21^st we passed 180º just half way round the world from Greenwich; we were then 12 hours ahead of Greenwich Time and so we are gaining about 20 minutes daily. We had to have an extra day in the week so we had 21^st November two days following. This brings us 12 hours behind your time but by the time we reach England we shall have gained that much. It seems as if we have lived a day longer than you at home. It is true the sun has risen and set once more with us than you but our days are not 24 hours in length.

With the exception of two or three wet days we had a splendid passage to Coronel, not one stormy day and the sea as smooth as it could be all the way. We arrived at Coronel (Chili) on December 15^th being 28½ days from Moué. Here we had to take between 7 and 800 tons of coal. The ship was anchored out in the bay and we went on shore in a small boat. It was a queer little place about 50 years behind the times, no shops to be seen. I think there were some stores like private houses but we did not go in any.

We went for a long walk over the hills surrounding the bay. Harold was very interested in seeing the oxen used for drawing the carts, it was the first time I had seen them as well. The majority of the people were Spaniards, the women wearing the mantilla, a large shawl used instead of a hat and covering most of the dress as well. During our walk we came across some strawberry fields and we went into a little hut and had a good feed, taking a large basket of the fruit home with us. On our return we had tea with the British Consul who gave me a lovely bouquet of flowers.

Going back to the ship in the boat I was very much frightened as we had a drunken boatmen and the sea was rather rough. However he fell off the seat on to the bottom of the boat and Harry helped pull the boat to the ship. I would not venture on shore again.

We tried to get some things for Christmas as it was drawing near but all we could get was a dozen fowls and we shall have to make the best of those. Leaving Coronel on December 16^th we had rather rough weather down to the Straits of Magellan – head winds and seas all the time and we did not get along as quickly as we wished to. As we got further south the weather became much colder and we were glad enough to put on warmer clothing.

The days were getting longer and on December 21^s,t our longest day, we had about 18 or 19 hours daylight. We entered the Straits of Magellan on the 22^nd and Harry was fully occupied for two days navigating the ship through – on the bridge night and day – even having his meals served to him there. The first day was foggy and rainy and we had to pass through passes of mountains and glaciers, sometimes only about one mile wide – it was wonderful scenery – grand and imposing but very dangerous for ships as there are no lights and very few beacons. The only way to tell the rocks was by the kelp or seaweed which grows on them. We saw quite a number of seals in this part. At night we anchored in a small bay and a sharp lookout had to be kept because the savages are always on the look out for ships to plunder. However, we saw none of them.

The next day the scenery was entirely changed. The ground was fairly flat, just occasional mountains and those not covered with snow as in the other part. The tide ran with such force in some places the water seemed to be boiling and we had a gale of wind all the time. It would make one shudder to see the wrecks of large iron steamers every now and again and feel it may be our lot as well. The water was alive with seals and porpoises, these being black and white and much prettier than those seen nearer home.

We were all very thankful when at midnight of the 23^rd we cleared the Straits all right. We were now prepared for Xmas, stoning raisins and the 12 fowls had to be prepared as all the sailors were to have roast fowl for dinner.